When most people think of Buckingham Palace, they imagine the iconic façade, the Changing of the Guard, or the opulent State Rooms. Yet tucked away within the palace grounds lies another treasure, often overlooked but no less remarkable: the Royal Mews. Far from being just a collection of stables, the Royal Mews is a living institution, a working department of the Royal Household that combines centuries of history, tradition, and practical service. It is here that the ceremonial horses are stabled, the carriages and coaches maintained, and royal road travel organised. For visitors, a tour of the Royal Mews provides a rare insight into the machinery of monarchy, where grandeur and functionality meet.
Origins and Early History
The word “mews” originally referred to a building used to house hawks while they shed or “mewed” their feathers. Over time, the term evolved to describe stables, particularly those associated with royalty. The origins of the Royal Mews date back to the 14th century during the reign of Richard II, when falconry was still a royal pastime. By the reign of Henry VIII, the Royal Mews had transformed into stables, located then at Charing Cross on the site where Trafalgar Square now stands.
It was during the 1820s that the Mews was relocated to Buckingham Palace under the guidance of architect John Nash, who was also responsible for much of the palace’s expansion. Nash’s design for the Mews was not only functional but also elegant, reflecting the importance of horses and carriages in royal life at the time. Since then, the Royal Mews has remained at Buckingham Palace, adapting through the centuries but always maintaining its essential role in the service of the monarchy.
A Working Department of the Royal Household
One of the most fascinating aspects of the Royal Mews is that it is not merely a museum or static collection. It remains a fully functioning department, responsible for all road travel arrangements for the King and other members of the Royal Family. This includes both ceremonial duties and day-to-day transport.
At the heart of this work is the staff: coachmen, grooms, stable hands, liveried helpers, and other skilled professionals. Many live on site, ensuring that the Mews operates smoothly and efficiently. Their responsibilities range from training and caring for the horses to maintaining the carriages and motor vehicles. The Mews also functions as a training ground, where apprentice coachmen learn the demanding skills required for ceremonial driving, ensuring the continuity of expertise for future generations.
The Horses of the Mews
The horses are perhaps the most captivating part of the Royal Mews for many visitors. Two main breeds are kept: the Cleveland Bays and the Windsor Greys.
- Cleveland Bays are the only British breed of carriage horse, known for their strength, stamina, and elegance. Traditionally, they are used to pull carriages for less formal occasions. Their deep bay colouring and reliable temperament make them ideally suited to the demands of ceremonial work.
- Windsor Greys, distinguished by their striking grey coats, are reserved for the grandest of occasions. They are the horses most often associated with state ceremonies such as coronations, royal weddings, and the State Opening of Parliament. The tradition dictates that Windsor Greys must be at least sixteen hands high, perfectly groomed, and trained to cope with noise, crowds, and the weight of elaborate carriages.
Training these horses is a meticulous process. Young horses undergo months, sometimes years, of careful handling to ensure they are steady in harness and responsive to their drivers. They must be desensitised to the clatter of carriages, the gleam of polished harnesses, and the presence of thousands of spectators. When they finally take their place in processions, they embody discipline and pageantry in equal measure.
The Carriages and Coaches
Perhaps the most dazzling treasures of the Royal Mews are the carriages and coaches. These are not merely relics of a bygone era but working vehicles still used for ceremonial events. Each has its own history and role, and together they form one of the finest collections of state coaches in existence.
The Gold State Coach
The star of the collection is undoubtedly the Gold State Coach, built in 1762 for King George III. Weighing nearly four tons and covered in gilded carvings, it is an extraordinary spectacle. Its panels are adorned with mythological scenes symbolising Britain’s power and prosperity. Due to its immense weight and the discomfort of its ride, it is used only on rare and significant occasions, such as coronations and jubilees. Most recently, it featured in King Charles III’s coronation procession.
The Irish State Coach
Built in 1851 and later restored after a fire, the Irish State Coach is another highlight. Its distinctive glass windows and intricate detailing make it a favourite for occasions such as the State Opening of Parliament. It is often drawn by four Windsor Greys, creating a striking image as it makes its way through London.
The Glass Coach
Acquired in the early 20th century, the Glass Coach is most famously associated with royal weddings. It carried Lady Diana Spencer to St. Paul’s Cathedral for her wedding to Prince Charles in 1981 and was also used for other high-profile royal brides.
The Diamond Jubilee State Coach
One of the more modern additions, the Diamond Jubilee State Coach, was first used in 2014. It combines traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, featuring elements such as air conditioning and hydraulic stabilisers. Despite these modern touches, it retains the grandeur expected of a royal carriage, with intricate detailing and historical materials incorporated into its construction, including fragments from iconic British landmarks.
These carriages, along with many others such as the Scottish State Coach and semi-state landaus, form an ensemble that reflects centuries of royal ceremony. Each is meticulously maintained by the staff of the Mews, polished and prepared for occasions that demand perfection.
Pageantry and Ceremony
The Royal Mews plays an indispensable role in royal pageantry. Events such as coronations, jubilees, state banquets, royal weddings, and the State Opening of Parliament rely on the carriages and horses housed here. Processions involving the Mews are among the most iconic images of monarchy, broadcast around the world and steeped in tradition.
For example, during the State Opening of Parliament, the Irish State Coach carries the monarch from Buckingham Palace to the Palace of Westminster, accompanied by an escort of Household Cavalry. On coronation days, the Gold State Coach takes centre stage, carrying the newly crowned sovereign through the cheering crowds. Such events highlight not only the splendour of the monarchy but also the logistical precision and centuries-old traditions upheld by the Royal Mews.
The Visitor Experience
For the public, the Royal Mews offers a chance to step behind the curtain of royal life. Open seasonally, the site allows visitors to see the carriages up close, admire the craftsmanship of the harnesses and liveries, and even glimpse the horses in their stables. Exhibits explain the history of the Mews, the design of the carriages, and the day-to-day responsibilities of the staff.
Interactive displays, children’s activities, and guided tours make the Mews accessible and engaging for all ages. One highlight is the opportunity to try on replica livery or climb into a carriage for a photograph, giving a playful but educational glimpse into royal tradition. For those with an interest in history, transport, or horsemanship, the Royal Mews is an unmissable destination.
Symbolism and Continuity
Beyond the spectacle, the Royal Mews embodies continuity. In an age of motorcars, aircraft, and digital communication, the use of horse-drawn carriages might seem anachronistic. Yet their continued presence underscores the monarchy’s connection to tradition, pageantry, and symbolism. These carriages are not practical vehicles but ceremonial ones, designed to convey dignity and grandeur.
At the same time, the Royal Mews adapts. Alongside its carriages and horses, it also houses modern motor vehicles used for everyday royal transport, demonstrating its role as a practical department as well as a ceremonial one. This balance between the old and the new reflects the monarchy itself—an institution rooted in history yet constantly adapting to the present.
Conclusion
The Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace is a unique blend of history, tradition, and living heritage. From the gleaming Gold State Coach to the disciplined Windsor Greys, from the skilled coachmen to the apprentices learning their trade, every element of the Mews speaks of continuity and service. It is a place where past and present meet, where ceremonies of centuries past continue to be enacted with the same care and grandeur.
For visitors, the Royal Mews offers not only a fascinating glimpse into royal life but also a deeper understanding of how tradition sustains the monarchy. It is not just about spectacle but about the unseen work, dedication, and craftsmanship that make such pageantry possible. In its horses, carriages, and staff, the Royal Mews preserves a world that is both timeless and relevant, ensuring that the monarchy’s most iconic ceremonies remain unforgettable for generations to come.
