Tucked away on Scotland’s southeast coastline, just eight miles north of the English border, lies the charming town of Eyemouth. With its picturesque harbour, storied past, and close-knit community, Eyemouth is a town that has both endured and thrived through centuries of change. For those who visit, it offers more than a day at the seaside—it’s a chance to walk through history, feel the pull of the tides, and understand the strength of a people shaped by the sea.
From its days as a haven for smugglers and traders to the resilience shown during the tragic Eyemouth Disaster of 1881, the town’s legacy is carved into its coastline and echoed in the waves. Today, Eyemouth balances its working harbour with tourism, conservation, and art, making it a dynamic and welcoming destination.
Geography and Setting
Eyemouth is located at the mouth of the Eye Water, a small river from which the town gets its name. It opens into a natural harbour protected by stone breakwaters, and the town itself rises gently inland, flanked by rugged coastline and rolling hills. This unique setting gives Eyemouth both scenic charm and strategic maritime advantages, which have shaped its fortunes for centuries.
The coastline around Eyemouth is stunning—marked by rocky coves, sea cliffs, and sandy stretches. Walkers can follow the Berwickshire Coastal Path for panoramic views of the North Sea, encountering seabirds, wildflowers, and even seals basking on the rocks. A short walk northward leads to Coldingham Bay and St. Abbs, both popular with surfers, divers, and nature lovers.
A Town Built on Fishing
Eyemouth has been a fishing town since the Middle Ages, with generations of families working the sea. By the 18th and 19th centuries, it had become one of the most important fishing ports on the southeast coast of Scotland. The industry brought prosperity, but also peril, as boats faced the unpredictable weather of the North Sea.
The town still has a working harbour today, home to fishing vessels that land catches of crab, lobster, langoustine, and haddock. The quayside is often bustling with activity, especially early in the morning when boats return with their haul. Visitors can watch the daily rhythm of harbour life, and local restaurants serve some of the freshest seafood in Scotland.
Fishing is not just an economic activity in Eyemouth—it is deeply woven into the town’s cultural identity. This is nowhere more poignantly reflected than in the memory of the Eyemouth Disaster of 1881.
The Eyemouth Disaster of 1881
On 14 October 1881, a terrible storm struck the southeast coast of Scotland. Known locally as “Black Friday,” the Eyemouth Disaster claimed the lives of 189 fishermen, 129 of whom were from Eyemouth itself. The storm was unexpected, and with no warning systems in place, the fishermen had no chance to return to safety.
Entire families were devastated. Some households lost multiple members—fathers, sons, brothers—all in a single morning. The tragedy left a deep scar on the community and has never been forgotten. In tribute to those lost, Eyemouth erected the Widows and Bairns Memorial on the town’s seafront. The sculpture shows a group of women and children gazing out to sea, waiting for loved ones who would never return. It’s a powerful and emotional reminder of the sacrifices made by fishing families throughout history.
Nearby, the Eyemouth Museum explores the disaster in more detail, alongside exhibitions on local history, smuggling, and the town’s evolution over the centuries.
Smuggling and the Secret Tunnels
Like many coastal towns in the 18th century, Eyemouth had a secretive side—smuggling was rife along the Berwickshire coast. High duties on goods like tea, tobacco, and spirits created a lucrative black market, and Eyemouth was a hub of these illicit activities.
Cunning locals constructed a network of smugglers’ tunnels beneath the town, some of which still exist today. These tunnels allowed contraband to be moved quickly from the harbour to homes and storage areas without the customs officers catching wind. The smuggling trade was both dangerous and daring, but it became a vital part of the local economy in its heyday.
Today, guided tours and exhibitions give visitors a glimpse into this hidden history, and some say that the tunnels still hide secrets waiting to be rediscovered.
Eyemouth Fort and the Wars of the Rough Wooing
Eyemouth’s strategic location meant that it was often caught in the crossfire of Anglo-Scottish conflicts. In the mid-16th century, during a turbulent period known as the Rough Wooing, the English built a large fort in Eyemouth to assert control over the Scottish Borders.
Eyemouth Fort, constructed in 1547 and briefly held by both English and French forces, was once the largest artillery fort in Scotland. Though now reduced to grassy earthworks, the site remains historically significant. Visitors can walk the remains of the fort and take in views of the town and harbour below, imagining the clash of cannons and clash of ambitions that once played out on this land.
Eyemouth Today: A Thriving Community
Modern Eyemouth blends its proud heritage with a strong sense of community and creativity. The town’s maritime museum, art galleries, and working studios highlight the talents of local artists and craftspeople. The Eyemouth Hippodrome, a multi-purpose arts venue, hosts concerts, theatre, exhibitions, and workshops, contributing to a lively cultural scene.
Events like the Herring Queen Festival, held every summer, celebrate Eyemouth’s fishing traditions with a parade, music, dances, and the crowning of the “Herring Queen,” a role taken on by a local young woman in a tradition dating back to the 1930s. This festival, along with the Eyemouth Lifeboat Gala and Harbour Day, brings residents and visitors together in a joyful mix of tradition and community pride.
Shops in the town centre offer everything from antiques to handmade crafts, while cosy cafés and pubs provide hearty fare and warm conversation. Eyemouth also offers well-maintained caravan parks, B&Bs, and holiday cottages, making it an ideal base for exploring the Scottish Borders.
Marine Life and the Eyemouth Marine Reserve
For nature lovers, Eyemouth is a gateway to the Berwickshire Marine Reserve, a haven for marine biodiversity and underwater exploration. The clear waters just offshore support kelp forests, reefs, and abundant marine life, drawing snorkelers and SCUBA divers from across the UK.
Gunsgreen House, an elegant Georgian mansion overlooking the harbour, serves as both a historical site and interactive museum. Once home to a notorious smuggler, it’s now open to the public and reveals much about Eyemouth’s illicit trade and the lives of those who walked its halls centuries ago.
Seals often haul out on the rocks near the harbour entrance, and boat trips allow visitors to see them up close—along with seabirds and, occasionally, dolphins or porpoises out in the deeper waters.
Conclusion
Eyemouth is a town that defies expectations. It is small but rich in character, resilient but welcoming, shaped by hardship yet full of vitality. Whether you’re walking along its historic harbour, climbing the grassy remnants of its old fort, or simply watching fishing boats return with the day’s catch, you feel Eyemouth’s spirit—a spirit born of salt, sea, and story.
It is a place where history is not a distant memory but a living presence, where the community honours its past while embracing the present, and where visitors are more than welcome—they are part of the ongoing tale.
For anyone seeking a coastal town with depth, beauty, and soul, Eyemouth is not just worth a visit—it’s worth returning to, again and again.
