A walk from Salisbury city centre to Old Sarum via the riverside path is more than just a pleasant outing; it is a journey through time, nature, and the layers of English history. It offers the walker a unique combination of medieval splendour, peaceful riverside scenery, and ancient archaeology, all tied together by a relatively gentle route that can be enjoyed by most abilities. At around two miles from the city centre to Old Sarum, the distance is manageable, yet the walk is so rich in sights and atmosphere that it feels like an immersive experience into both landscape and heritage.
Beginning in Salisbury
The walk begins in Salisbury, a city famed for its medieval cathedral, bustling market square, and picturesque streets. As you set out from the city centre, you can pause to take in the impressive sight of Salisbury Cathedral’s soaring spire, the tallest in England, which dominates the skyline. This is a fitting starting point, because later on, from Old Sarum’s hilltop, you will be able to look back and see this same spire rising above the surrounding landscape—a reminder of the connections between the old and new settlements of Salisbury.
Leaving the bustle of the centre, you head towards the River Avon, one of the five rivers that converge around Salisbury, giving the area its lush meadows and fertile soils. The city itself grew around these waterways, and the rivers remain a defining feature of its landscape. The riverside walk begins as you move north out of the city, trading the hum of traffic and market chatter for the gentle sounds of flowing water and birdsong.
The Riverside Walk
The riverside path is one of the most enjoyable sections of the route, offering calmness and beauty in equal measure. The River Avon flows lazily here, its banks lined with reeds, willows, and wildflowers in the spring and summer months. Kingfishers are sometimes seen darting along the river, their flashes of blue a delight for those lucky enough to spot them. Ducks, swans, and moorhens are regular companions, and in quieter stretches you may glimpse herons standing motionless in the shallows, waiting for fish.
The path itself is generally well-maintained, flat, and easy to follow, making it accessible for families and casual walkers as well as those simply looking for a peaceful stroll. The further you move away from the city, the more the sense of tranquillity deepens. Open fields stretch out to one side, often grazed by sheep or cattle, while the river continues to wind gracefully on the other. In spring, the meadows can be filled with buttercups and daisies, while autumn brings a golden glow to the trees along the banks.
Walking here, it is easy to imagine that little has changed in centuries. The Avon has always been central to the life of Salisbury and Old Sarum before it, providing water, fertile land, and natural beauty. The riverside walk offers a reminder of the timelessness of this landscape, and how deeply human settlement has been shaped by these natural features.
Approaching Old Sarum
As you continue along the riverside path, the great earthworks of Old Sarum gradually come into view on the horizon. At first, it looks like a low hill rising above the flat meadows, but as you draw nearer, the scale of the site becomes clearer. Old Sarum was once the original site of Salisbury, long before the cathedral and city we know today were built. Its commanding position on a hilltop made it a perfect defensive stronghold, and for centuries it was a centre of power and settlement.
The climb up to Old Sarum is not steep but offers a gentle ascent from the riverside path. The track curves upwards, and soon you find yourself entering through the deep earthworks and ditches that were cut into the hillside by the ancient peoples who first settled here. These banks, still imposing today, would have formed formidable defences.
Exploring Old Sarum
At the top, you step into one of the most remarkable historic sites in southern England. Old Sarum has seen thousands of years of human activity: it was first occupied in the Iron Age, then became a Roman settlement, a Saxon stronghold, and later a Norman castle and cathedral site. The earthworks you see today date back to the Iron Age hillfort, but layered upon this are the remains of Norman stone walls, gatehouses, and the outline of Salisbury’s original cathedral, consecrated in 1092.
Standing on the ramparts, you can look out over the surrounding countryside, with views stretching for miles. To the south, the spire of Salisbury Cathedral rises elegantly above the trees, a striking sight that symbolises the shift of settlement from Old Sarum to the valley below in the early 13th century. To the north and west, rolling hills and farmland stretch away, a patchwork of fields that look much as they would have in medieval times. The wind often whistles across the open hilltop, carrying with it a sense of exposure and history, as though you are standing in the footsteps of countless people who once called this place home.
Walking around the site, you can explore the ruins of the Norman castle built by William the Conqueror’s half-brother, Bishop Osmund, and later expanded under King Henry I. Though the walls are now tumbled, their outlines remain, hinting at the power and grandeur the castle once projected. Within the same enclosure, the foundations of the original Salisbury Cathedral can still be traced, a poignant reminder that the magnificent structure in modern Salisbury was born out of dissatisfaction with this exposed, windswept site.
The Return Journey
After exploring Old Sarum, you can return to Salisbury by retracing your steps along the riverside path, or for variety, take a more direct route via Castle Road, which leads straight back into the city centre. The riverside walk, however, is often the preferred option for those wishing to savour the peaceful beauty once more and perhaps reflect on the layers of history they have just experienced at Old Sarum.
A Journey Through Time and Place
This walk is more than just a pleasant countryside stroll; it is a journey through England’s deep past, set against the timeless beauty of the River Avon. From the medieval splendour of Salisbury Cathedral, through the quiet charm of the riverside meadows, to the ancient strength of Old Sarum’s earthworks, the walk offers contrasts and connections that bring history vividly to life.
For those interested in heritage, it provides a unique opportunity to trace the story of Salisbury’s origins, seeing both the old and the new in a single outing. For those who simply love the outdoors, it offers an accessible, scenic path rich in wildlife and natural beauty. And for anyone seeking a contemplative experience, it provides the perfect chance to step away from modern life and immerse yourself in a landscape where nature and history coexist in harmony.
The walk from Salisbury city centre to Old Sarum via the riverside path is, in every sense, a journey worth taking. It is not only a physical walk but also a passage through time, offering the walker glimpses of Iron Age fortifications, Roman roads, Norman castles, and medieval cathedrals—all within a couple of miles. Few places in England offer such a concentrated mix of history and scenery, and fewer still do so in such a peaceful, accessible way.
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