On a windswept hill just two miles north of Salisbury lies Old Sarum, one of the most fascinating historic sites in southern England. Part Iron Age hillfort, part Norman stronghold, part medieval settlement, Old Sarum is more than just a ruin—it is a tapestry of English history layered across 2,000 years.
Standing within its massive earthworks, with sweeping views of the Wiltshire countryside, it is easy to see why people chose this spot for settlement and defense. From Celtic tribes to Norman kings, Old Sarum has been at the center of power, politics, and community life. Today, it is an evocative ruin cared for by English Heritage, drawing visitors intrigued by its archaeology, legends, and commanding beauty.
The Iron Age Beginnings
The story of Old Sarum begins around 400 BCE, when Iron Age peoples constructed a hillfort on this strategic mound. Its defensive banks and ditches were carved into the chalk landscape, forming a formidable enclosure. From here, the inhabitants could monitor movement across the Salisbury Plain and the River Avon valley.
This early settlement thrived for centuries, its people trading, farming, and defending their territory. The sheer size of the earthworks—visible even today—demonstrates its importance. These ramparts still dominate the landscape, a reminder of Britain’s ancient tribal past.
The Romans Arrive
When the Romans invaded Britain in AD 43, they quickly recognized the strategic significance of Old Sarum. Although they established a new settlement, Sorviodunum, on the site, their main focus in the region was building roads. Two major Roman routes—between Winchester and Bath, and London to Exeter—passed nearby, reinforcing the hillfort’s role as a regional stronghold.
Archaeological evidence suggests some Roman occupation, though the site was never as heavily Romanized as places like Bath. Still, its position ensured continuity of use.
Saxons and Vikings
After the fall of Roman Britain, Old Sarum became part of the Saxon kingdom of Wessex. During this period, the site remained fortified, serving as a stronghold against Viking raids. In the 9th and 10th centuries, as Viking incursions increased, Old Sarum once again became a place of refuge and defense.
Its elevated position and commanding views made it the ideal place for early medieval rulers to consolidate their power in the region.
The Normans and the Rise of a Castle
The most dramatic transformation of Old Sarum came after the Norman Conquest of 1066. Recognizing its strategic and symbolic importance, William the Conqueror ordered a motte-and-bailey castle to be constructed inside the Iron Age ramparts.
By 1070, a royal castle and a cathedral had been established on the site. William himself came to Old Sarum in 1086 to receive oaths of loyalty from his barons—a momentous event recorded in the Domesday Book. For a brief time, Old Sarum was at the very heart of Norman power in England.
The Norman castle included a central keep, inner and outer baileys, and substantial fortifications. It served both as a royal residence and a military stronghold, guarding the surrounding lands and reinforcing Norman dominance.
The Medieval Cathedral
One of Old Sarum’s most intriguing features is its cathedral, built in 1092. This Romanesque structure, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, became the seat of the Bishop of Salisbury. For nearly two centuries, Old Sarum was a thriving religious center, combining sacred and secular authority within its walls.
However, the cathedral faced many difficulties. The exposed hilltop made it vulnerable to strong winds and water shortages, and tensions grew between the clergy and the castle’s garrison. These disputes eventually led to the cathedral’s demolition, and in the early 13th century the bishop began construction of a new cathedral down in the valley—what we now know as Salisbury Cathedral, with its soaring spire.
The stones of Old Sarum’s cathedral were repurposed for the new building, leaving only foundations behind. Walking through the outlines of the nave and transepts today, one can still sense the grandeur it once possessed.
Decline of Old Sarum
With the cathedral relocated and the new city of Salisbury flourishing in the valley below, Old Sarum entered a period of decline. The royal castle fell into disrepair, the settlement dwindled, and by the 14th century it was largely abandoned.
Yet Old Sarum’s political influence lingered in a surprising way. Despite having almost no inhabitants, it continued to send two Members of Parliament to Westminster. This gave rise to its reputation as a “rotten borough”, a symbol of political corruption in pre-reform England. The borough was finally abolished by the Reform Act of 1832.
Rediscovery and Preservation
By the 19th and 20th centuries, Old Sarum was recognized as an important archaeological site. Excavations uncovered the remains of the cathedral, castle, and earlier settlements, piecing together its layered history.
Today, the site is managed by English Heritage, and it remains open to the public. Visitors can walk along the vast earthworks, explore the ruins of the Norman castle and cathedral, and enjoy panoramic views of Salisbury and its famous cathedral spire.
What to See at Old Sarum
A visit to Old Sarum offers a rich blend of archaeology, architecture, and atmosphere. Highlights include:
- The Earthworks: The sheer scale of the Iron Age ramparts is breathtaking. A walk along the banks gives sweeping views of the Wiltshire countryside.
- The Castle Ruins: Explore the remains of the Norman keep, palace, and inner bailey, imagining the life of kings and soldiers who once lived here.
- The Cathedral Foundations: The outlines of the Romanesque cathedral are visible, providing a tangible link to the religious history of the site.
- Panoramic Views: On clear days, the view stretches across Salisbury Plain and down to Salisbury Cathedral, connecting Old Sarum’s past to the city’s present.
Legends and Myths
Old Sarum has inspired legends throughout its history. One tale tells of how the site for Salisbury Cathedral was chosen: according to tradition, an arrow was fired from Old Sarum, and where it landed determined the new location. In some versions, it was not an arrow but a bowshot loosed by a soldier—or even a falcon released from the hilltop—that determined the cathedral’s site in the valley.
Such stories highlight the way Old Sarum has always fired the imagination, linking the ancient hillfort to the enduring glory of Salisbury Cathedral.
Old Sarum Today
Today, Old Sarum is a popular destination for both locals and tourists. Families enjoy picnics on the ramparts, photographers capture the dramatic landscapes, and history enthusiasts walk through the ruins piecing together the past.
Events and re-enactments are sometimes held on the site, bringing its history to life with medieval knights, archery, or storytelling. Its open spaces also make it a haven for wildlife, with wildflowers, butterflies, and birds thriving among the ruins.
Why Visit Old Sarum?
Old Sarum is more than just an archaeological site—it is a place where you can walk through the layers of English history in a single afternoon. From its Iron Age origins to its Norman castle, from its lost cathedral to its role in Britain’s political evolution, Old Sarum tells a story that is both local and national.
For visitors to Salisbury, it offers a fascinating contrast to the grandeur of Salisbury Cathedral. Together, Old Sarum and the cathedral illustrate the shift from hilltop stronghold to valley city—a microcosm of England’s medieval transformation.
Final Thoughts
Old Sarum is one of those rare places where history feels alive in the landscape itself. Standing on its ramparts, you can imagine Celtic tribes defending their hillfort, Norman kings commanding their realm, and medieval bishops plotting the move to Salisbury.
Though now a ruin, Old Sarum remains a powerful symbol of continuity and change—a reminder of the people, events, and stories that shaped England. If you find yourself in Wiltshire, don’t miss the chance to climb its ancient banks, trace the outlines of its lost cathedral, and look out toward Salisbury’s spire. You will be standing where history began.
