Edinburgh is a city that wears its history proudly on its sleeve. Its cobbled streets, looming spires, and centuries-old buildings tell a story that spans royalty, rebellion, and revolution. But beneath the beautiful, postcard-perfect façade of the Old Town lies a world that is darker, colder, and far more mysterious—the Edinburgh Underground Vaults. The Underground Vaults Walking Tour offers visitors the chance to step back in time and explore the secrets of this hidden city beneath the streets.
This isn’t just another sightseeing tour; it’s an immersive dive into Edinburgh’s shadowy past, where tales of crime, poverty, and the supernatural intertwine with the city’s remarkable history.
What Are the Edinburgh Underground Vaults?
The Edinburgh Vaults, also known as the South Bridge Vaults, are a series of chambers hidden beneath one of the city’s busiest streets. Completed in 1788, the South Bridge was designed with 19 arches, many of which were enclosed to create usable spaces beneath the street level. Originally, these vaults were intended to serve as workshops and storage areas for merchants and tradespeople.
At first, the vaults thrived. Businesses moved in, storing goods, tools, and materials in the dry spaces below. But the reality of Edinburgh’s climate soon made itself known. Leaks and dampness plagued the vaults, and as legitimate businesses abandoned them, the spaces became home to a very different kind of activity.
By the early 19th century, the vaults had fallen into disrepair and were largely forgotten by the respectable citizens of Edinburgh. They became the haunt of the city’s poorest residents, criminals, and those operating on the fringes of society. Rumours swirled about illicit drinking dens, illegal gambling, and even body snatchers using the vaults as hiding places.
The Atmosphere Below the Streets
One of the most striking aspects of the Underground Vaults Walking Tour is the sensory shift you feel the moment you descend beneath the Old Town. The noise of the city fades away, replaced by an eerie stillness broken only by the sound of your guide’s voice.
The air grows cooler and damp, with a distinct earthy smell that speaks of centuries-old stonework and lingering moisture. Your eyes adjust to the low light, revealing arched ceilings, narrow passageways, and rough stone walls. Some areas are little more than claustrophobic chambers, while others open into surprisingly large rooms where gatherings once took place.
It’s easy to understand why the vaults have gained a reputation for being one of Edinburgh’s most haunted locations. Shadows play tricks on your vision, and every creak or drip of water echoes in the darkness. Even if you don’t believe in the supernatural, the vaults have a way of sparking your imagination.
The Stories That Bring the Vaults to Life
While the vaults themselves are fascinating, it’s the storytelling that makes the tour truly special. Knowledgeable guides—often dressed in period costume—share tales that weave together the documented history of the vaults with the darker legends that have grown around them.
You’ll hear about the people who once lived in these damp, cramped conditions: families struggling to survive in squalor, crammed into tiny rooms without light or sanitation. You’ll learn how the vaults became a refuge for those fleeing the law, a base for illicit businesses, and a hiding place for stolen goods.
One of the most chilling parts of the vaults’ history involves the so-called resurrectionists—body snatchers who supplied Edinburgh’s medical schools with cadavers for anatomy lectures. The vaults were rumoured to be part of this gruesome trade, with bodies hidden away before being sold for dissection.
The Paranormal Reputation
For those intrigued by ghost stories, the vaults offer no shortage of tales. Many visitors and guides report strange occurrences: sudden drops in temperature, unexplained shadows, or the feeling of being watched. Some speak of hearing faint voices or footsteps in empty corridors.
One of the most famous supernatural tales involves “Mr. Boots,” a ghostly figure said to haunt the vaults. He is described as a tall man wearing heavy boots, often heard stomping around or muttering under his breath. Other reports speak of child spirits, including one known as “Jack,” said to tug on visitors’ clothes or reach for their hands.
Sceptics may dismiss these stories as tricks of the mind in a dark, enclosed space—but for many, these eerie experiences are part of the tour’s enduring appeal.
What to Expect on the Tour
The Underground Vaults Walking Tour typically begins above ground in the Old Town, where your guide sets the scene with stories of 18th and 19th century Edinburgh. You’ll wander through narrow closes (alleyways), pass by historic landmarks, and hear about the daily lives of the city’s inhabitants during the time when the vaults were in use.
The descent into the vaults is often through a discreet entrance—an unassuming door that leads you into a world far removed from the busy streets above. Tours usually last between 60 to 90 minutes, giving you plenty of time to explore several different chambers while your guide shares the vaults’ history and legends.
Because the vaults are largely unaltered from their original construction, expect uneven floors, low ceilings, and a few tight passageways. The lighting is deliberately kept dim to preserve the authentic atmosphere, so wearing comfortable shoes and watching your step is important.
Why the Tour Is So Memorable
The magic of the Underground Vaults Walking Tour lies in its combination of tangible history and atmospheric storytelling. It’s not just about looking at old stone walls—it’s about imagining the lives of those who once inhabited these hidden spaces. You’re standing where merchants once stored their goods, where desperate families huddled together in the cold, and where whispers of illicit deals echoed through the darkness.
The tour offers a rare chance to engage with history in a way that feels immediate and personal. Unlike a museum exhibit, you’re physically in the space where events happened. The temperature, the acoustics, and the physical layout all shape your experience, making the past feel alive in a way that’s difficult to replicate elsewhere.
Tips for Enjoying the Tour
If you’re considering the Underground Vaults Walking Tour, here are a few tips to make the most of it:
- Book ahead: Tours can fill up quickly, especially during peak tourist seasons and around Halloween.
- Dress appropriately: The vaults are cool and damp year-round, so bring a jacket even in summer.
- Wear sensible shoes: Uneven floors and stairs are part of the charm but require sturdy footwear.
- Keep an open mind: Whether you’re interested in the history, the ghost stories, or both, let yourself be immersed in the atmosphere.
- Ask questions: Guides are passionate about their subject and can often share extra details or personal experiences.
A Glimpse into Edinburgh’s Hidden Past
The Underground Vaults Walking Tour offers more than just a few ghost stories—it provides a window into the lesser-known side of Edinburgh’s history. It’s a reminder that beneath the grandeur of the Royal Mile and the majesty of Edinburgh Castle lies a city shaped just as much by its shadows as by its sunlight.
For some, the vaults are a place of historical curiosity. For others, they’re a place where the veil between the past and present feels unusually thin. Either way, stepping into the underground is stepping into a part of Edinburgh that remains as fascinating today as it was centuries ago.
If you’re visiting the city and want an experience that combines history, mystery, and a dash of the supernatural, the Underground Vaults Walking Tour is an unforgettable choice. It’s an adventure that lingers in your mind long after you’ve returned to the bright, bustling streets above.
