Tucked away behind the historic streets of Oxford, through a narrow passageway and almost invisible to the untrained eye, lies one of the city’s most beloved and storied pubs—The Turf Tavern. This iconic institution is more than a place to enjoy a pint; it is a centuries-old establishment that has borne witness to the rise of empires, the musings of great minds, the wild celebrations of students, and the quiet contemplation of history-lovers.
With roots that stretch back to the 13th century, the Turf Tavern combines old-world charm with a vibrant atmosphere that attracts a diverse crowd—from Oxford dons and students to tourists, actors, and world leaders. Often referred to simply as “The Turf,” this pub embodies the living spirit of Oxford, steeped in tradition, shrouded in legend, and overflowing with character.
Origins and Architectural Legacy
The exact date of the Turf Tavern’s founding is subject to some debate, but records suggest that a tavern has existed on the site since at least the 14th century. The original establishment, thought to have been an alehouse serving masons working on nearby colleges and city walls, has evolved into one of Oxford’s most renowned pubs.
The current building dates from the 17th century, with earlier foundations and elements of medieval stonework still evident. The low ceilings, uneven flagstone floors, winding corridors, and wood-beamed interiors give the pub a distinctive and authentic historical ambiance. In a city rich in ancient structures, the Turf Tavern stands out as a particularly atmospheric location, blending seamlessly into Oxford’s timeless aesthetic.
Its entrance, via a narrow alleyway off Holywell Street or a footpath by New College and the Bridge of Sighs, adds to its mystique. Visitors often report stumbling upon the pub unexpectedly, giving it the feel of a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered.
The Name and Its Origins
The name “Turf Tavern” likely refers to the turf fires that would have been used in centuries past for heating and cooking. Alternatively, it may evoke the grassy turf of old coaching inns or public house gardens, though in this case, the name is more metaphorical than literal—the Turf is densely packed into Oxford’s architectural heart, with its charming beer garden tucked within stone walls rather than rolling green.
The pub was formerly known as The Spotted Cow until the 1840s, when it was renamed to reflect a more traditional and memorable identity. The change coincided with growing interest in Oxford’s heritage and the romanticisation of England’s old inns and taverns.
A Hub of Academic Life
As with many of Oxford’s oldest pubs, the Turf Tavern has played a pivotal role in the life of the University of Oxford. Situated close to several colleges—New College, Hertford, All Souls, and Queen’s, among others—it has long been a favourite haunt of both students and academics.
Students find the Turf to be an ideal retreat after exams, lectures, or tutorials. Its warm, cosy interiors and extensive selection of beers, ales, and spirits make it a natural setting for unwinding and connecting with peers. Despite its age, the Turf has managed to maintain a youthful and lively energy.
Academics, too, frequent the pub. It is not uncommon to overhear intellectual discussions and light-hearted debates over a pint in the corner. The Turf has often served as a setting for tutorials carried into informal territory—an extension of Oxford’s unique culture of blending rigorous scholarship with everyday experience.
Famous Patrons and Visitors
The Turf Tavern has welcomed a remarkable range of famous visitors, further cementing its legendary status.
One of its most well-known guests is Bill Clinton, who frequented the Turf during his time as a Rhodes Scholar at University College in the late 1960s. It was here that he is said to have “smoked but didn’t inhale” marijuana, a statement that would later become part of American political folklore.
Other celebrated guests include Stephen Hawking, Richard Burton, C.S. Lewis, and Elizabeth Taylor. The Turf’s guestbook, if it existed in physical form, would read like a cross-section of 20th- and 21st-century intellectual and cultural icons.
The pub has also been featured in numerous documentaries and travelogues and has made its way into popular culture due to its connection with Oxford’s cinematic reputation. While less overt than the Eagle and Child’s association with the Inklings, the Turf’s notoriety rests in the breadth and diversity of its clientele, many of whom go on to shape the world.
Food and Drink
The Turf Tavern is operated by Greene King, a brewery group that manages to retain the traditional look and feel of classic British pubs while offering a modern menu. Visitors can expect a variety of traditional pub fare, including bangers and mash, steak and ale pie, Sunday roasts, and vegetarian and vegan options.
The bar is well-stocked with real ales, craft beers, ciders, and fine whiskies, making it a favourite for connoisseurs of drink as well as casual patrons. The pub is proud of its rotating selection of guest ales and its commitment to quality, which appeals to both locals and international visitors seeking an authentic experience.
One of the highlights is the courtyard beer garden, which, though compact, offers a surprisingly peaceful refuge in the heart of the city. On sunny days, the garden is filled with conversation and laughter, with students revising, tourists relaxing, and locals catching up with friends.
A Setting for Secret Meetings and Quiet Moments
The Turf’s secluded location and labyrinthine structure have made it ideal for private gatherings and secret conversations throughout history. During the 17th and 18th centuries, it was not uncommon for meetings of political groups, radical thinkers, and even secret societies to take place behind its unassuming walls.
Although such romantic tales are hard to verify, the Turf certainly retains an aura of secrecy and intimacy. Many people come here not just for the drink, but to escape the bustling streets and find a quiet corner to read, think, or write.
Ghost Stories and Pub Lore
Like many of Oxford’s ancient buildings, the Turf Tavern has its share of ghost stories and folklore. Tales of spectral figures drifting through the narrow corridors or strange sounds echoing through the timbered rooms contribute to the pub’s mythos.
One local legend tells of a student who, after failing his exams, is said to have wandered into the Turf never to be seen again—though the story is almost certainly apocryphal, it adds to the tavern’s aura as a place filled with mystery and character.
Preserving the Past While Embracing the Present
The Turf Tavern, while steeped in history, has not been left behind in modern times. It has embraced digital reviews, updated menus, and seasonal events, while still maintaining the traditional spirit that defines it. Visitors from all over the world come not only for the drinks and food but for a chance to step back in time and experience something that feels uniquely and quintessentially Oxford.
The balance between preservation and adaptation is one of the Turf’s most impressive achievements. It remains relevant to today’s generation without compromising its heritage—a feat not all historic pubs can claim.
Conclusion
The Turf Tavern is not just one of the best pubs in Oxford; it is one of the most enduring symbols of the city’s spirit—a place where past and present intertwine, where scholars and tourists share benches, and where every flagstone seems to whisper a story.
Whether you find yourself enjoying a quiet afternoon pint, debating philosophy with friends, or simply soaking in the centuries-old atmosphere, the Turf offers something rare and memorable: a taste of authentic Oxford charm, hidden in plain sight.
For those who seek more than just refreshment, the Turf Tavern offers a journey through time—a hidden Oxford gem with a golden heart.
